Spilling Waves
Spilling waves happen when there is a gradual slope in the sea floor.
As the wave approaches the shore, the top (the crest) slowly tumbles down the front of the wave (the face). The wave’s energy gradually decreases in the whitewater. These “mushy” waves are suitable for West Bay Nippers.
Dumping Waves
Dumping waves occur when the water becomes shallow over a sandbar. This wave has a vertical wall and gets top-heavy, which causes the top of the wave (the lip) to pitch out and drop to the wave’s bottom (the trough).
Dumping waves that break parallel to the beach are called “closeouts.”
Closeouts make surfing inconsistent and dangerous for beginner surfers.
Surging Waves
Surging waves at Xizihwan (Uni Beach) form when massive swells from typhoons reach the shoreline. Surging waves move at high speeds and do not lose momentum.
Surging waves are hazardous to beach users as they knock people off their feet and take them out into deep water. The strong backwash causes a pulling or sucking effect.
Surging waves make it to the trees in front of the club and will rip away the green vegetation on the beach. I wouldn’t recommend going near the beach.